2 Bretton Woods area trails offer the best of both easy and advanced hikes in the White Mountains
BRETTON WOODS – MOUNT WASHINGTON AND MOUNT WILLARD
April 21, 2024 (Mt. Willard)
Two Pre or Post Hike Stops
Overlooking the town of Bretton Woods lies the Presidential Range and Mount Washington. Because of it, Bretton Woods is also home of the historic Mount Washington Hotel, now called the Omni Mount Washington Resort. If your mantra is, “Go Big or Go Home,” then Mount Washington – the hotel and the mountain – is for you. Mount Washington boasts the highest peak in the Northeast (6,288’) and has a weather system that is not for the feint of heart. The resort, built in 1902, is one of the last grand hotels remaining in New Hampshire. And it is indeed grand. Visitors are treating to a feast of the eyes. Walking through the hotel is like walking through a museum. The architecture, furniture and décor are all tastefully opulent. The only thing more compelling is the outside view, which is on full display through the floor to ceiling windows in nearly every room and from the many outside sitting areas. Although undeniably very nice, rooms are pricey.
Not too far away is a very different option for both climbing and overnight accommodations. The American Mountain Club (AMC) operates a lodge right near Crawford Notch called Highland Center. It has parking available for accessing some easier trails and smaller peaks (in addition to the big ones). Far from “less than,” these choices do provide for “less than” in terms of cost and effort. The AMC lodge is comfortable, clean and efficient. Unlike the AMC huts, you have private sleeping space options available. Like the AMC huts, you get breakfast and dinner included with your overnight stay, which is very reasonably priced, and the opportunity to socialize with fellow hikers in their intimate dining hall and lounge area. Mount Willard and Mount Avalon are 3.1 and 3.3 miles respectively. I did Mount Willard on my first visit and found it to be very easy going. The view at the summit is nothing short of stunning.
Mount Willard
The Mount Willard trail is an out and back trail. It starts out as packed dirt. There are several water crossings (at least in the Spring) on the lower part of the trail. Nothing too difficult but be vigilant. You do have to be careful with any water crossing. Wet rocks are slick. Once you lose your footing, there is really no getting it back unless you have a walking stick, trekking poles or a nearby branch or person to grab. The vegetation and compilation of debris that grow and get trapped in these waterways are often deceiving. What may look like a solid foothold is often anything but. This can mean a quick foot submersion which, depending on the temperature, can either make for an uncomfortable remainder of your hike or the end of your hike. Even if securely rooted, these choices can be slippery as well. Many years ago, I took a nasty fall on a wet rock. The second my foot hit the rock it was flung with gusto, with my body attached. The next thing I knew I was on my back. Water crossings now always make me nervous and, for me, it’s more mind over matter to get through them. Scope out the best (easiest) spot to cross, plan your foot placement and then go. Try to be as intentional as possible. The trick is not to let your feet or the rocks know you are nervous by hesitating.
Eventually, the trail becomes quite rocky. At the time I went, there was still crusted snow on parts of the trail, especially along the sides. The varied conditions and the snow melt caused us to dance a bit, continually changing our course as we had to pick and choose the best place to place the next step. You need to be careful of post holing during this time of year and again being mindful of wet rocks – even when not stream crossing. Much of the trail is straight and narrow, closely lined with fir and white birch. It’s almost tunnel-like.
The grade seemed very low. The approach to the summit is unusual. Often, you have to do a final climb or rock scramble or work-around to get to the summit and see what there is to see. As you approach the top of Mt. Willard, the trail is flush with its summit. Looking straight ahead at the partial view, surrounded by the forest, is like looking through a window, or towards the opening of one end of a tunnel. You just keep walking, and you are there, right there. The view is so expansive and in such contrast to the closed-in trail. It’s as if you walked out of a jungle to the ocean. Take it all in before returning the way you came. We were done in less than two hours.
Mount Washington
Mount Washington is another story as you have much more than wet rocks to worry about. No matter the trail taken to the summit and when, it is a serious climb. I have not attempted it yet. My son and husband have completed it many times, both in the winter and the fall. My son – an avid hiker - scrambles up at breakneck speed and can be up and back in four hours. This is not normal. He takes the Ammonoosuc Ravine trail. My husband has always made it an overnight trip, starting late in the afternoon. He and his buddies pitch a tent above tree line, always a struggle with the high winds, sleep for a few hours and then ascend the summit in the wee morning hours. By the time they get their gear packed and get back down to the base of the mountain it’s about midday. For most, I think it’s a hard, full 8–10-hour day hike.
You always have to watch the weather closely when attempting a Mount Washington climb. It is notoriously fickle and can change for the worse on a dime. The winds are insane. You don’t want to get caught in a storm – ever. During the winter and much of the spring and fall, there is a lot of snow and ice on the mountain and the trails can be difficult to follow. Visibility is often not good and many, if not most, have to rely on GPS markers at least part of the time to maintain on track. Your gear has to include ice picks and cramp-ons and snow goggles and many warm layers of clothing. It is imperative that you do your research, be prepared to be on the mountain longer than expected and in colder temperatures than expected and climb safely. Climbing safely means not exceeding your limits and turning back when in doubt.
For those that do go, Mount Washington is likely a monumental hike.
ROOFTOP JEWEL TERRACE AT OMNI MOUNT WASHINGTON RESORT
Many years ago, when I was researching my family’s first big trip to a National Park (Grand Canyon), I came across a great piece of advice which I’d like to share with you. You don’t have to stay in the most luxurious accommodations to experience them. Most hotels and resorts have dining, bars and lounge spaces that are available to the public. So, for the price of a refreshment or meal, you, too, can enjoy that great view and service. As such, regardless of where you book any overnight accommodations while at Bretton Woods, you’re going to want to treat yourself to some time at the Omni Mount Washington Resort. There are several nice places to eat and drink inside, but assuming good weather, you’re going to want to check out the rooftop Jewel Terrace. On it looking out, you face Mount Washington and the rest of the Presidential Range. In season, the open-air Observatory Bar, located on the rooftop, will supply your needs. If that bar is closed, light fare and drink is available through the Rosebrook Bar located inside, just off the veranda connecting the hotel to the Jewel Terrace.
It’s hard to choose among the many specialty cocktails they have available. I went with one called, Of All Things. It was made with 21 Seeds Grapefruit Hibiscus Tequila, Aperol, Barmalade Grapefruit-Elderflower, fresh lime, rhubarb bitters and Lunetta Prosecco. They had me at 21 Seeds…. It was divine. That perfect combo of sweet and tart. And beautiful. Hibiscus pink and served in the curvy Poco Grande cocktail glass. It looked so nice it drew some away from the mountain view as I had a few people stop and ask me what I was drinking.
The Reason to Visit: The million-dollar view.
When you go: Look through their interesting and quirky drink menu, complete with diagrams of specialty drinks and ingredient and health tidbits about them.
Omni Mount Washington Resort, 310 Mount Washington Hotel Rd, Bretton Woods
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