AMC's Greenleaf Hut: A Respite in the White Mountains

GREENLEAF HUT

JUNE, 2023

The Accommodations

Over 135 years ago, the Appalachian Mountain Club began to create rustic overnight housing for hikers. There are now eight AMC huts scattered across the White Mountains.  Much nicer than what you think of when you hear the word, “hut,” but not appointed with the comforts, décor or amenities you expect when you hear “hotel” or “mountain lodge.”  It’s more like a large bunkhouse or cabin with an attached kitchen, dining area and bathrooms.  You sleep and eat together with the other guests.  Dinner and breakfast are served at an appointed time, and everyone grabs a seat at one of the picnic tables.  Large platters of food are passed around family style.  Each bedroom has six single-person bunks (three on each side) with sufficient hooks and shelves for your gear and personal belongings.  You get your individual bunk upon arrival.  There are no outlets to charge any devices. There are no showers. There is no hot water.  Sinks are lined up in an open floor plan meaning that you are visible to others – both men and women – while washing up and brushing your teeth.  There are several private bathrooms, with compost toilets, that are large enough to change in. 

The Croo

The huts are hosted by a group of people who are referred to as the, “Croo.”  Ours were mostly younger, college-aged students. They reside at the huts during their tenure and work very hard to make your stay a pleasant one.  With an “all hands-on deck” approach, the Croo handles check-in’s, meal planning, food preparation, service and clean-up, entertainment, first-aid, the sale of refreshments and baked goods, educational presentations, guest relations and the stocking, cleaning and general management of the hut.  They share information about weather forecasts, sunrise and sunset times and trail conditions. And they seem to love what they do.  I was most impressed with their responsibility to maintain provisions for the hut.  This involved weekly hikes down the mountain (approximately 3 miles) with a backpack contraption which essentially amounted to a wood platform with leather straps.  Once at the trailhead parking lot, they would be loaded with food and other supplies – up to 40lbs each! – and have to carry it all back to the hut.  Having gone that way on my descent I can tell you that there are many steep areas which have to be challenging to even the strongest and fit Croo member.  It’s easy to overlook how all that stuff gets there when you are enjoying your dinner.

The Experience

Those attracted to the hut experience welcome the simplistic and communal nature of the lodging.  You have to hike through the White Mountains to get to any of the huts, so most guests already share a love of the outdoors, physical exertion and the ability to live – at least for a while – without all the creature comforts of home.  Many go precisely to find the quiet and off-line presence and are happy to share time and space with like-minded people.   Conversations, real-life, in- person conversations, take place.  There is a sense of community that I think is often present with any intimate, shared travel experience such as at the AMC huts.  I’ve experienced this on group tours.  I’ve also felt it when spending time in the public areas of the National Park lodges such as the sitting area in front of the fireplace or the bar. The instinct to keep to oneself is lost. There is that willingness to talk to the person next to you, to ask them about their day or upcoming trip. The Croo at the AMC hut often address the guests as a group, perpetuating the feeling of togetherness.  The lack of Wi-Fi doesn’t hurt either. It is very different from the private, but often isolated, experience one has when staying at a hotel or Air B&B. 

To get to Greenleaf, I hiked up Falling Waters Trail starting from the Franconia Notch parking lot. I summited Mount Lafayette and then headed down via Old Bridal Trail.

  Located about a mile from the summit, the hut was a welcome site.  I had been hiking for about six hours and was tapped out.  People were lounging about outside, some on the small porch, some on the grassy areas surrounding the hut.  We walked into the dining area and headed straight for the table of beverages.  They offer water, coffee, and tea as self-serve items.  Off the dining area, opposite the entry, is a door that leads to a deck.  We took our drinks there and enjoyed the view and some conversation.  Some of the hikers went right to work washing their socks and other clothes and hung them outside to dry.  One guy had his boxers hanging off his hiking poles!  They resembled the prayer flags often pictured at the base of Mount Everest. Perhaps he was praying they would dry. I was returning home the next day and was not about to do laundry.  I also had no desire to have my undergarments on full display.

I was on my third cup of tea when I noticed the handwritten sign that said the first beverage is free for overnight guests.  It was at that time that I also found a Croo member.  After forgiving me, she explained that I could choose my bunk.  I was hoping to obtain a bottom bunk so that it would be easier for me to get out during the night should the need arise.  There were several not yet assigned.  I washed up, changed and set out my sleeping bag.  I then strategically placed the few items I thought I may need within arms reach within the bunk.  These included my headlamp, a small towel and my toothbrush.  My bag and boots were hung at the end of the room.  There were a few people already in their bunks reading and writing while awaiting dinner.  I didn’t dare lay down for fear I would drift off to sleep.  Instead, I went back out to the main area and checked the place out further.  I watched hikers come and go.  You don’t have to be staying overnight to use the hut facilities.  Some took the opportunity to rest a bit and have a snack.  I eavesdropped on a hiking group discussing the day and the expectations they had for the next.  Who was going too fast, who too slow. Who wanted to rest tomorrow and who needed to bag more peaks. There was one who was always consulting the maps and one who was always talking.  Two women kept shaking their heads no matter what anyone else said.  Hey, don’t judge, it was entertaining, I was tired, and I needed to do that mindless vegging out.

At long last, we were told that dinner was almost ready. We needed to vacate the dining area for a few minutes so they could clean and set the tables.  We quickly obliged, our mouths watering.  It was worth the wait.  We had the most delicious rustic peasant bread and kale salad to start, followed by a white bean soup.  Thereafter, we were served lasagna, a side of peas and spice cake for dessert.  All of it was handmade and the portions were generous.  In between bites, guests enjoyed small talk.  Mostly about the shared interest in hiking and being outdoors.  Many had a story about the day they wanted to relive. Everyone was courteous and nothing felt odd about sharing a meal with strangers.  Well, except that there were no napkins.   This is done intentionally as a way to limit the amount of waste.  While I understand the goal, I was taken aback by the prospect of not having anything to wipe my hands, face or nose on.  (Fortunately, I had some tissues in my pocket which I used surreptitiously.) When the meal was complete, we all helped pass the plates and cups to the front of the tables where the Croo whisked them off to the kitchen and commenced with the cleaning. We were again asked to vacate the area while they took care of the tables. 

We were free to do whatever we wanted until “lights out” at 9:00.  A large number of guests played group games organized by the Croo in the dining area.  Others relaxed quietly in their bunks.  Some talked between themselves.  Some, including me, went to bed early.  Not only was I tired, but Ronnie and I had decided to wake early enough to see the sunrise from the back deck. 

Sunrise was at 5:00 AM and Ronnie was climbing down the ladder and tapping me at 4:30 AM.  To my surprise, we were the only ones up for the event.  It was beautiful and worth it.  Now, the only problem we made for ourselves was that breakfast wasn’t served until 7:00 AM.  Two hours is a long time to go between waking and coffee (or for me, tea).  We passed the time by playing cards, quietly changing and getting our gear ready and talking with others as they woke up.  When breakfast did come, it was enjoyed more for the wait.  There was oatmeal with all the fixings, scrambled eggs and breakfast sausage. Most reported a good night’s sleep.  I was out like a light, woke only once and fell right back to sleep. 

Good to Know

Quite a few people I had talked to before the trip had reservations about the shared sleeping arrangements.  To be fair, it is unusual.  Other than AT hikers and those travelers utilizing hostels, not many people find themselves willingly sharing a sleeping space with strangers.  Some were concerned about privacy.  Some about cleanliness.  Some about safety.  I didn’t have an issue with it.  The hut was clean and, as far as I could tell, so were the people there.  Obviously, everyone had been hiking and there were no showers.  But people washed up and cared enough about their appearance to not stand out.  And I think everyone was either too tired or too happy to cause any trouble. 

I would definitely stay in a hut again and look forward to trying the others.

Reservations are recommended as the huts often fill to capacity.  All but three of the huts are closed during the winter.  The ones that do stay open offer shelter and use of the kitchen facilities, but food is not provided, and the huts are minimally staffed.